Due either to being under-rated or a sordid tale of corporate espionage (see Wikipedia link above), the capacitors will gradually vaporize their electrolyte (and sometimes not so gradually, with a bang) until they can no longer perform their capacitorly duties, causing the monitor to go haywire. Their tops normally have a score pattern on them, but should otherwise be flat. Collateral Damage With the caps replaced, it’s a good idea to check for any obvious collateral damage. Visible bulging, ruptured tops or signs of leakage (e.g. brown goo around the top or seams) are sure signs they need replacing. They should not bulge upward, even a little.
Googling the model # and terms such as “problems” or “repair” or “won’t turn on” revealed pages of discussion on the forums: it seems this model of monitor is yet another victim of the bad capacitor plague that somehow continues to sweep the electronics world. Upon opening the monitor, this suspicion was confirmed by several visibly bulging capacitors in the low-voltage section of the power supply. There is also a surface-mount fuse on the controller board near the power entry connector. There are several dozen of this model of monitor at my work since last year or so; the other day I found one on top of the dead electronics plunder pile recycling bin, looking brand new. Note that failed or failing caps will not always show visible signs. On the Delta DAC-19M010 board, things are divided up into 3 logical sections: the bottom half is a switching power supply that steps your 120/240V wall power down to a 13.8V and 5V rail. Pop off the plastic cover hiding the screws that attach the base.
Unscrew them and any other visible screws, then carefully pry at the seam where the two halves of the monitor “shell” come together. Cap List Here are suitable replacement parts currently available on Digikey. Be careful when removing the old ones, as some of them are near very brittle powdered-core inductors and tacked down with some kind of glue. This is the one that can make your skeleton glow even if the monitor is unplugged. Probable Symptoms: Monitor won’t turn on, no apparent power, black screen Blinking power LED Turns on but shuts itself off without warning* Note: This power supply board (or very similar model) appears to be used in a variety of monitors from different manufacturers. Note that to get the final metal shields off, the backlight connectors and the ribbon cable to the button panel must be disconnected, then the scew-in posts for the video connectors and two screws concealed in the mains cord socket must be removed.